Exterior Work Continues
We carefully inspected all caulked deck boards and cabin wall caulking to find weak spots or missing caulking. Each spot found had to have all the caulking removed, then the seam cleaned out and make sure it is dry, then tape off each seam and recaulk for water tightness.
The entire inside of the hull had been painted battleship grey, which has prevented the boards from soaking up moisture when we wet it down. We have tried to wet it down with having gunny sacks laid inside the hull with water sitting in it as a way of trying to get the boards to swell up so the seams are smaller. The paint is preventing alot of the swelling that would normally occur. John, author of many articles in Classic Wood Boat and Traditional Boats maggazines in Great Britian has been alot help with technical questions on caulking and repairing, thanks John!
Howard inspected every board and rib for damages, replacing or repairing where needed. Some places had wide gaps between the boards and small strips of wood are installed to narrow the amount of okum and caulking that will be needed to make it water-tight.
Every screw and old square nail was also inspected to make sure they held tight - used mostly stainless steel and bronze screws for replacements, builders of the boat had used square cut nails which some are rusting away. We have to watch metal usage to prevent "galvanic" erosion.
Wood plugs or epoxy mix was installed in every nail or screw hole in preparation for the final sanding before painting the primer on the hull above the water line. We hired two local guys to sand the entire hull of the boat for us as that was a really physically tiring job, holding a heavy sander up alongside the boat for hours. It took the two guys four hours to sand the hull and keel.
New stainless steel double track was installed on all 14 double sliding windows of the upper and lower cabins, over $1000.00 in materials alone! The windows previously had been caulked, had foam around it, or otherwise "glued" into place without the ability to open them. Now all the windows work smoothly. Problem is, how do you devise a lock system that can secure the windows all closed when not around the boat? Something to ponder.
The boat also has two solid picture windows on the rear of the salon, and three large windshield windows, two of which can open outward. Then each window trim had to be refinished or replaced inside and out. This project took several days to finish.
The entire inside of the hull had been painted battleship grey, which has prevented the boards from soaking up moisture when we wet it down. We have tried to wet it down with having gunny sacks laid inside the hull with water sitting in it as a way of trying to get the boards to swell up so the seams are smaller. The paint is preventing alot of the swelling that would normally occur. John, author of many articles in Classic Wood Boat and Traditional Boats maggazines in Great Britian has been alot help with technical questions on caulking and repairing, thanks John!
Howard inspected every board and rib for damages, replacing or repairing where needed. Some places had wide gaps between the boards and small strips of wood are installed to narrow the amount of okum and caulking that will be needed to make it water-tight.
Every screw and old square nail was also inspected to make sure they held tight - used mostly stainless steel and bronze screws for replacements, builders of the boat had used square cut nails which some are rusting away. We have to watch metal usage to prevent "galvanic" erosion.
Wood plugs or epoxy mix was installed in every nail or screw hole in preparation for the final sanding before painting the primer on the hull above the water line. We hired two local guys to sand the entire hull of the boat for us as that was a really physically tiring job, holding a heavy sander up alongside the boat for hours. It took the two guys four hours to sand the hull and keel.
New stainless steel double track was installed on all 14 double sliding windows of the upper and lower cabins, over $1000.00 in materials alone! The windows previously had been caulked, had foam around it, or otherwise "glued" into place without the ability to open them. Now all the windows work smoothly. Problem is, how do you devise a lock system that can secure the windows all closed when not around the boat? Something to ponder.
The boat also has two solid picture windows on the rear of the salon, and three large windshield windows, two of which can open outward. Then each window trim had to be refinished or replaced inside and out. This project took several days to finish.
posted by Chut Loon | 9:29 AM
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